Stan’s NoTube tubeless conversion kits are used by the lion’s share of pro off-road cross-country racers, and now, Stan Koziatek has worked out a simple kit for 700C clincher wheels. The ramifications of this will be slow in coming at first. Prior to Stan’s Notube Kit, there was only one wheelset, Shimano’s Dura-Ace WH7850-S, and a single tire, Hutchinson’s Fusion Tubeless, that potential tubeless customers could choose from. While Stan’s instructions clearly stipulate that the only tire capable of remaining on a rim is the carbon-fiber-bead Fusion Tubeless, they widen the choice of rims to almost any quality clincher on the market.

So why bother with tubeless? For one, Hutchinson’s tubeless tire is the only clincher that approaches the fast-rolling, smooth, corner-hugging ride of a quality tubular. Tubeless tires, like tubular types, are nearly immune to pinch flats (double punctures caused by sharp impacts like potholes). Perhaps a more compelling reason for the switch to tubeless, however, is the fact that adding Stan’s liquid sealant eliminates all punctures except for monster-sized cuts—and if that happens, one simply slips in a spare tube and continues on. Those familiar with tubeless and the Hutchinson Fusion tire are extremely happy with the performance—and find it a revelation to ride a set of tires flat-free to the end of the tread.

Before we show you how to install Stan’s NoTubes 700C conversion kit, however, you need to be clear on a few important facts. Shimano and Hutchinson have spent much time and engineering effort to spearhead Road Tubeless into existence. Shimano insists that the design of their Dura-Ace WH7850-S rim is specifically engineered to mount and seal a tubeless tire. Hutchinson worked for over three years to successfully manufacture a tubeless tire that would seal at high pressure, and most importantly, not balloon over time and blow off the rim at some unlikely moment—probably mid-race. Shimano and Hutchinson are high-power engineering-driven firms that deserve your respect. Both firms insist that the Fusion tire and Dura-Ace wheel are presently the only items authorized for Road Tubeless. We ride and highly recommend this spectacular-performing team.

That said, Stan Koziatek is also fanatic about testing and working out solutions to problems—especially when it comes to tubeless. We have learned to trust Stan’s seemingly simple strategies. Now that there are at least three new tires in the works for Road Tubeless, and perhaps two wheelsets in development, Road Tubeless will soon be available to a wider audience. For those who are interested in tubeless and don’t have a thousand bucks to spend on a Dura-Ace wheelset, Stan’s conversion can get you in the game for about $150—including the price of a pair of Hutchinson Fusion tires. Still interested? We pulled a set of Ritchey Protocol WCS wheels off the shelf to show you how it is done, and as it turned out, Stan’s NoTube 700C conversion is an easy process.

Step one: remove the tire and existing rim strip, and then clean and lightly sand the inside surfaces of the rims. Automotive brake cleaner works well

Step two: Using Stan’s special tape, begin about three inches from the valve stem hole and tightly wrap the inside of the rim with two layers of tape. Wiggling the tape from side to side as you apply it helps it seat evenly inside the rim well. Use a clean cloth to press the tape securely onto the rim surface.

Step three: Use a sharp knife or X-acto blade to cut the valve stem hole in the tape. Do this carefully and smooth the edges of the hole with a file, as this is the entry point and seal area for the Presta valve.

Step four: Before you install the Presta valve, loosen the removable valve core with pliers and snug it down finger tight so that it can be removed easily later. Install the valve stem with the threaded nut loosely so you can work the tire beads alongside its rectangular seal.

Step five: Install the Hutchinson Fusion Tubeless tire (don’t be a smarty pants and attempt to use a different tire—you will probably die from your mistake). Use only hand pressure and finish near the valve stem. After the tire is on, push the valve stem upwards and tuck the tire beads alongside the stem’s rectangular rubber seal before tightening the stem nut firmly with only your fingers. Do not overtighten the stem.

Step six: Inflate the tire. It is best to use some type of bead lubricant like liquid dish soap (Hutchinson sells a greenish gel product that is specifically for this step). Lay the wheel on its side and give it a go with a hand pump. No deal? Then use an air compressor or a CO2 inflation device to shock the tire onto the rim. Inflate the tire to 110 psi to give it shape and seat the bead. Let it sit for a few minutes, and then...

step seven: Deflate the tire and remove the valve core. With the tire vertical and the valve stem at the eight o’clock position, squeeze in two ounces of Stan’s sealant. Replace the valve core and inflate to 110 psi. A hand pump should suffice, as the tire beads have been seated. Swing the wheel around and shake it wildly to spread the sealant throughout the inside of the tire and rim. Bubbles and drops of sealant should appear near the tire bead, and near the seam of the rim. Stan’s conversion will work on unwelded “pinned” rims, like the Ritchey wheels used in this demonstration, because the sealant will fill the microscopic spaces at the joint.

Tips from Stan: some rims, of course, will give you trouble, as there are variations between manufacturers. If you have trouble inflating your conversions, or plan on riding cyclocross events, Stan recommends you use his cyclocross 700C rim strips. Those of you who own wheels with no spoke holes, like Mavic Ksyrium, can eliminate the rim tape altogether. If you want to see it done live on video, visit:

www.notubes.com/movie_road.php